Day Five … Already?

Roada’s wheels didn’t move a single inch today. Yep, you read that right – I spent last night and all day today enjoying the constant movement of the wide moss-green Chena River outside my door, but the river was the only thing moving.

My little “garden” and doggy play yard all set up at River’s Edge RV Park in Fairbanks, AK.

I slept late (bless you, Ronni, for being willing to indulge me on this 💗), did a little necessary but light house-cleaning, and generally listening to my body as it told me “Stop! Enough already”.

[Especially] those of you who live with any sort of auto-immune disease will understand the need to pay attention to what your body is telling you. It’s a skill I have had to developed over time. When traveling, I try to be flexible and not force a pre-set travel plan. I never know when (or if) I may need to change my plans to adjust to my body’s needs. Fortunately, this is often my preferred mode of travel anyway, so it’s seldom a hardship. 👍🏼

Living with fibromyalgia; the abrupt weather change yesterday morning was a red flag that a fibro-flare was probably imminent. I wanted to curl up and nap almost as soon as I hit the road, but it wasn’t awful [yet], so I set my sights on Fairbanks and made my way here at an easy pace.

It is also, admittedly, a big reason I didn’t plan (yesterday) to try to drive any further than Fairbanks, and chose to hunker down in the first safe, comfortable RV park I found. It was a good choice.

Since I’m relaxing today; it’s the perfect time to bring everyone up to date on the wildlife I’ve seen on this trip (so far). Again, being solo this trip (Rhonda not withstanding – she’s pretty useless with a camera), I missed most wildlife photo opportunities, darn it. Still, wildlife WAS seen – some of it more up close and personal than is my preference.

In Valdez, we saw several Bald eagles, and more BUNNIES than I care to count. Ronni was in heaven there. 🐇🐇🐇.

On the drive back up Thompson Pass, we passed a wet moose, happily munching browse belly deep in a marsh (no place to pull over, darn it) and a pair of large, long-eared, Arctic hares. Near Paxson, not far from where the Denali Highway cuts off from the Richardson Hwy, a fox bounded across the road, barely squeaking by unscathed by my tires.

Paxson Lake is larger than I expected and has a spacious, shady, black spruce covered State campground that seems to be particularly popular with boaters and hiking enthusiasts. I was curious and considered spending a night there, so moseyed my way carefully around the two large campground loops. I don’t think I’d want to try this with anything much bigger than my 27’ RV, but the campsites were nicely separated, if a bit of a walk from the lake.

Just as I paused, debating between pulling into a nice, drive-thru campsite or getting back on the road to continue on, Rhonda gave a sharp bark. This was not her “I see a bunny bark” – I turned my head to follow her laser-focused gaze just in time to see the large brown rump of a bear disappearing into dense brush not 30’ away! Yikes! We decided to keep driving.

A second bear loped across the gravel road well ahead of my RV on our way back to the highway. Wow, no wonder there were so many signs at the campground entrance warning about bear-proofing your campsite, keeping food in the metal food lockers provided at each site, etc. 😳

The road to Paxson Lake … a nice side-trip, but crossed off the list for camping with just me and Ronni. 🐻

I saw two more moose alongside the road on Saturday. The moose themselves were well off the road, the only danger being from looky-lou rubber-neckers stopped along the road (there was NOT a pull-out area there [grumble grumble], taking pictures. I did not join them. I’ve seen plenty of moose.

Here in Fairbanks, we’ve briefly harassed some ducks, robins and one hapless bunny (so far), which has been enough to keep Ronni ever-vigilant on our walks. However, being bound by leash restraints, it’s been a strict “look but don’t touch type of thing.

Ronni … wishing she was off-leash. 🦆🦆

As evening settles over the campground, bringing with it another bout of soothing rain, I find myself contemplative. Why DO I do this? Why do I go to all this effort? I’m not sure of the answer, other than to say it’s a promise I made to myself. Or I can quote a saying I read a while back:

“My goal in 2020 is to accomplish the goals I set in 2019 which I should have done in 2018 because I made a promise in 2017 which I planned in 2016.”

~unknown (Internet source)

So, off we go again. I will be packing up my homey little camping companions in the morning; my two big mosquito-plant pots (citronella, lemon grass, lemon balm and some pretty deep red flowers to add color), my spider-plant (in the macrame hanger I re-learned how to make on my last trip), and my pot of Arizona succulents (they love sunshine, but live on the dashboard if it’s chilly/rainy outside, except on travel days).

I’ll bring in the life-size dachshund statue that sits outside with the plants – “Phred” travels on the bed, cushioned by pillows. I’ll put away several other knick-knacks that only get brought out if I’m staying more than 24 hours …

I have travel day down to a science at this point. Some things get stored away the night before, but honestly – I can be on the road in less than an hour. 👍🏼

I’ll store away my big jigsaw puzzle board and strap down the spinning wheel if I’ve had them out, and make sure my knitting bag is out of dog reach.

After that, it’s just the normal; bring in the slide, stow the water hose, electric, x-pens and leveling boards – IF any of those were used. I have to admit, getting set to travel is sure easier when I don’t “grow roots”. 😄 If I just stop and boon-dock for the night, I sometimes don’t have anything at all to do in the morning except potty the dogs and drive away.

These two days of quietude have been perfect. Enough sunshine for several long, campground and river-exploring walks with Rhonda, and just enough rain for afternoon naps and sleeping at night with the drowse-inducing sound of light rain on the roof. There is a robin’s nest in the tree outside my bedroom window here, so I’ve been treated to sweet birdsong in the morning and late at night (keeping in mind, sunset is somewhere around midnight).

All in all, it’s been a delightful stay, even with all the reminders of the pandemic. It saddens me to see campgrounds this empty this time of year, with the gift shop and restaurant closed up tight. Check-in desks have sneeze-guards and are often manned by clerks wearing face masks. Some even ask you to check in by phone.

Fellow campers are still friendly – they stop to say hello, but we all keep a respectful 10’ or so between each other. A strange new world is evolving … all the more reason to get out and LIVE it. Who knows what tomorrow will bring?

For me and Rhonda; tomorrow should bring us to the Parks Highway. It’s not time to go home just yet, but it’s time to turn our noses that direction. 🦅

Night (sort of) on a rainy evening on the Chena River. Fairbanks, Alaska

Day Four – We Found Fairbanks!

Someone once told me all roads (in Alaska) lead to Fairbanks – if you keep driving long enough. I don’t know about that, but if you turn right when you exit the Delta Junction State Recreation Area, you will indeed end up in Fairbanks – eventually. It’s sort of hard to miss.

Rhonda and I were startled awake at 7:00 this morning to the sound of marbles rolling across the roof of the Winnebago. The first thought to make it into my sleepy brain was that the squirrels Ronni had harassed the night before were getting back at her by pelting us with nuts! But when the sound of nuts on the roof was joined by a loud whooshing sound, I sat up enough to raise the curtain and peek outside.

Our glorious sunshine of the previous two days was gone, replaced by leaden skies and loudly gusting winds. Enough wind, it seems, to be shaking spruce cones (Alaska’s version of pine cones) off all the trees surrounding our campsite.

With branches swaying and moaning around us, Ronni and I bundled up and ventured outside. I noticed with relief that none of the wildly waving limbs were dancing too close to the fiberglass sides of the RV. Ronni noticed that the squirrels were still ready for action, chittering and scolding as they scampered across the forest floor from tree to tree.

I was a tad embarrassed for Ronni when I realized that she – accustomed to bunnies who scurried along the ground – had not yet figured out that the squirrels were out-witting her by climbing UP. 🐿 She circled and circled those trees, trying to figure out where the heck the hole was … [snicker].

So much for an early start. With winds this high, the last thing I wanted to do was try to drive this oversized kite down the highway. I sensibly made coffee and went back to bed.

Several hours later, the wind having abated too no more than a stiff breeze, we pulled out and headed north once again. I was SO glad I’d stayed on the road longer than planned the previous day when it was so pretty. With gray skies and fog drifting low over and around the mountains I knew were hiding somewhere nearby, the drive became pretty much just that – a drive.

Yep, believe it or not, there’s a mountain range out there!

Still, a few gems were found along the way. Hidden Lake sported a lovely, well maintained roadside park where Ronni took great delight in checking out mini waves on an equally small “beach” – just the right size for a dachshund.

Hidden Lake, about an hour outside of Fairbanks, AK

While Ronni was occupied by wavelets pushed to shore by jet-skiers, I snapped a few pictures of shoreside flowers … and a few not so shore-bound as well.

  • The only thing missing were frogs!

In spite of our late start (I pulled out of our campsite in Delta Junction about 5 minutes shy of mandatory evac at 11:00 am), we found ourselves pretty much lost in downtown Fairbanks before 3:00 pm. I pulled into a handy Fred Meyer parking lot to toy with my options.

Crossing the Chena River had nudged a possible night’s destination into mind, so rather than wander around town like a whale in a kiddie pool, I popped the name of an RV Park into my GPS and let it direct me through traffic. So much simpler! It seemed only a matter of minutes before I found myself checked in and settled. And OH! The view!

The view of the Chena River from my campsite.

We’ll likely fall asleep tonight with the sound of rain on the roof (one of my favorite sounds, so no complaints), but tomorrow is another day. I’m sure it’s going to be a good one. Rhonda agrees.

There’s ducks out there!

Day Three – The Adventure Continues

Departing Valdez Saturday morning was bittersweet. I could’ve easily stayed for several days, but this trip is all about travel, not destinations.

So I unhooked water and electric, tidied the rig, and stored away my mosquito plants, step and door mat. The road ahead would be bumpy, so I made sure everything was extra secure. After one last walk with Ronni in the grass of the harbor-side park, we were ready to bid a fond adieu to Bear Paw RV Park in Valdez.

“Roada”, seeming so small below the still snow-draped mountains of Valdez.

With a brilliant sunny day drawing us, Rhonda and I looked forward to the drive up Keystone Canyon and back through Thompson Pass … eager to see all the beauty again – from the other direction. We were not disappointed.

I don’t recall the name of this river – I stopped because these milky green, boulder-strewn glacial rivers are special to me. They epitomize scenic Alaska.

Unknown river along Thompson Pass, Alaska

Rhonda particularly enjoyed this roadside stop. Not only did it have a great view of the river, but it also had … rabbits!! 🐇

RABBIT! Oh, did Ronni want that bunny!

This was probably the worst argument Rhonda and I have had during our trip so far. The strength of her harness and leash were all that kept my little hunter from disappearing into the deep Alaska woods in pursuit of her prey. If the following (very short) Youtube video doesn’t pop open, click on it … she was madder than a wet hen!

🐇 I don’t think so, Rhonda! 🐇

We finally made it back to the junction of the Richardson Hwy and Glenn Hwy at Glennallen. After gassing up, grabbing a quick lunch and a potty break for Ronni (she had forgiven me and was back to her cheerful self), we chose to turn north and followed the signs that said “Tok, Delta Junction, Fairbanks” (in no particular order), ignoring for now the mileage listed for each. No matter! Off we go.

I slowed down and sighed deeply as we passed the turn that would have taken us to Tok … and across the border into Canada. That had been my original plan for this summer, denied me by the Covid pandemic.

Shaking my head sadly, I reminded myself of how very much I had to be grateful for – including this diverse and beautiful state I call home.

Huge lake … and even bigger expanse of Alaska beyond.

I haven’t driven the Richardson Hwy in several years and the last time, we were heading the opposite direction. It’s amazing the difference this makes.

Every curve in the road, and they were plentiful, brought into view another awe-inspiring snow-capped mountain vista (yes, in late June), glittering alpine lake or high expanse where you would swear you could see the entire state stretched out below you.

Summit Lake, between Glennallen and Delta Junction
One of the more spectacular pull-outs, this was high above Summit Lake (not in view). I truly wanted to boon-dock here for the night, but had promised to only stay overnight where there was cell service for safety reasons. Sigh.
This glowing mountainside was SO much more awesome in person. The colors and textures, the play of sun and shadow – not to be believed! It looked like a oil painting.

Probably only a 3-4 hour drive straight through; with all my stops for photos and deep, gulping breaths of beauty (it may not feed your body, but it surely feeds your soul), the whole day passed with my hardly noticing the time.

When I pulled into Delta Junction State Campground, it was 8pm. It had been a glorious day, but Ronni and I were both tuckered out.

Delta Junction State Recreation Campground (only $15 a night). I pulled into the first site I found, said “Oh, thank you God, it’s level!” And called it a night. 🌲

Well, I thought Ronni was tuckered out … until she saw SQUIRRELS! 🐿🐿

De and the Dachsies Ramble on … Day Two

My heart sings, absolutely swells with joy when I drive through towering, snow-capped mountains.

My favorite photo op spot along the Richardson Hwy on the way to Valdez, Alaska. Killer view of the Wrangle/St. Elias Mountain Range.

I think there should be a rule that they place vehicle pull-outs at every single scenic view. Impractical, perhaps. But geez … when you are traveling alone, it’s not like you can just stop in the middle of the road to pull out your phone and capture that glorious shot.

This is sure a “Dolittle” mountain, isn’t it? Use your imagination.

Then again, if there had been more pull-outs, I’d be on this road all day.

I stopped for lunch and a walk with Ronni at Worthington Glacier. The wind added extra crispness to the air, but with partly cloudy skies, the glacier had a wonderful variety of colors. I wish they showed better in the photo.

Worthington Glacier; top of Thompson Pass

Ronni would’ve probably enjoyed a much longer stretching of legs here than she ended up getting, but unfortunately, too many people seem to think the signs saying “All dogs must be on leash” only counted until you got past the sign. 😕 After picking her up three times due to onrushing loose dogs, we gave up and turned around. Sigh.

This cool but pesky camp-robber (bird) was mugging everyone for food. Ronni thought it looked pretty edible itself! 😉

I finally arrived at Keystone Canyon! I took this shot (below) right at the top of the pass. I was stopped at construction for about 25 minutes, just past Blueberry Lake campgrounds, so it took me a while.

The vegetation was so verdantly green along this entire section of highway! This spot spoke to me in particular due to the rushing milky-green glacial river, the green cliffs and hillside and the slate grey, snow-edged mountains beyond. Both sides of the road were equally lovely.

With dinner beckoning me from my favorite restaurant in Valdez (I opted for take-out), I didn’t stop to take photos at the always picturesque waterfalls, rivers and towering cliffs along Keystone Canyon. I did drive slowly though, and soaked up all the beauty I could stuff in without bursting. Oh! It was beautiful. 🌲🦅🌲

Being stuffed full of wilderness during the drive, I surprised myself by opting for a middle-of-downtown campground when I arrived in Valdez. The mountains are stunning, the harbor is literally right across the street – and The Fat Mermaid restaurant is a scant 5 minute walk away!

Ronni says to tell everyone; “There are bunnies in the campground, too!” Oh my.

Valdez small boat harbor